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No lure is 100% snag-proof, but this one, rigged
correctly, comes pretty close. Occasionally, the round head
will wedge in wood. With a little practice, mounting any 2-4"
plastic to fish snag less is easy:
- Note the spur is cast in line with the hook point for
snag-less rigging of plastics.
- Push the spur into the center of the nose of the plastic
so the nose is tight to the lead.
- Allowing a little slack, lightly insert the hook point
under the "skin" of the plastic so the barb just
holds it in place. Don't bury the point deep in the plastic.
Shallow insertion makes the lure snagproof, but allows easier
hooking of light biting crappie. See that the nose is still
tight to the lead, and that the plastic is straight so the
lure works properly. See photo across. 1.75-2.5" tubes
work great, but they need to be solid body for the spur
to work. Hollow tubes can be used, but they don't last long.
To get the lure back cast after cast practically all day,
I've developed a set up as follows: I use a 7-9 foot graphite
spinning rod with a medium reel. The main line is 20 pound
Super Braid, tough but limp enough to cast even a light lure
well. The long rod with the larger reel spool allows plenty
of casting distance with the heavy Super Braid. Tip with 24"
of pure fluorocarbon, 14 pound. This is heavy enough to straighten
a Timber Basher's 1/0 Aberdeen when it does get hung. Watch
for abrasion of the leader. 14 pound pure fluorocarbon is
detected by fish only under gin-clear water conditions. If
you rig as described above, the Timber Basher will fill your
cooler.
Fish 'em S-L-O-W!! Ease the lure through the wood. Don't
forget the crappie nibbles!!

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Timber Basher Lure

Timber Basher with properly mounted
1 3/4" solid body tube.
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